Fall Checklist Guide
for South Jersey Homeowners

A certified chimney sweep removes creosote buildup, which is highly flammable and the leading cause of chimney fires. They will also inspect the flue liner for cracks, check the damper operation, examine the chimney cap and crown for damage, and look for any obstructions like bird nests. Schedule this in September or October before the busy season. The cost is typically $150 to $300, a small price for peace of mind.

Before you light your first fire, test all carbon monoxide and smoke detectors in your home. Replace batteries in any detector that is more than six months old. If you do not have CO detectors on every level of your home, install them now. Carbon monoxide from a fireplace or furnace is odorless and deadly. This is the single most important safety step you can take.

If you use a wood-burning fireplace, buy or split your firewood in early fall so it has time to dry before winter. Seasoned firewood should have been cut and split at least six months ago and stored off the ground in a covered area. Wood that is not properly seasoned produces more creosote, which increases the fire risk. Store firewood at least 20 feet from your home to prevent pests.

Rake or blow leaves away from your home's foundation. Wet leaves hold moisture against the siding and foundation, which can lead to rot, mold, and pest problems. Pay special attention to areas where downspouts discharge, as wet leaves accumulate there. Maintain at least a six-inch gap between the soil or mulch and your siding to prevent moisture wicking.

After all the leaves have fallen, typically in late November in South Jersey, clean your gutters one last time before winter. Remove all debris, check that downspouts are clear, and ensure water flows freely. This is the most important gutter cleaning of the year because clogged winter gutters lead directly to ice dams. Consider installing gutter guards if you have many trees.

Continue mowing your lawn as long as it is growing, typically into November in South Jersey. Keep the grass at about two to two and a half inches for the final cut of the season. Rake fallen leaves regularly; a thick layer of leaves smothers grass and promotes snow mold. Fall is also the best time to overseed thin areas, apply a winterizing fertilizer, and aerate compacted soil.

Pour a bucket of water into the sump pit. The pump should turn on automatically and drain the water quickly. If it does not, check the float switch for obstructions and ensure the pump is plugged in. Check the discharge line for kinks, blockages, or ice buildup. Listen for unusual noises that might indicate a failing pump motor.

Winter storms often knock out power, which is exactly when your sump pump is needed most. A battery backup sump pump automatically kicks in when the power goes out. This is one of the best investments you can make for your home. If you already have a backup, test it by unplugging the main pump and making sure the backup operates properly. Replace backup batteries every three to five years.

Make sure the sump pump discharge line directs water at least ten feet away from your foundation and slopes downhill so water does not pool near the house. In winter, make sure the discharge line is not frozen or blocked by ice and snow. Consider installing a freeze-proof discharge line if your current setup is prone to freezing.

Book your annual furnace tune-up in September or October. A technician will clean the burners, inspect the heat exchanger for cracks, check the flue for blockages, lubricate the blower motor, and test the thermostat calibration. A well-maintained furnace is less likely to fail on the coldest night of the year. If your furnace is more than 15 years old, discuss replacement options before a mid-winter failure forces an emergency purchase.

Replace your HVAC air filter at the start of the heating season, then every month throughout the winter. A clean filter improves airflow, keeps your system running efficiently, and prevents dust from circulating through your home. Buy a pack of filters now so you have replacements ready all winter.

Most ceiling fans have a switch that reverses the direction of the blades. In winter, run your ceiling fans clockwise at a low speed. This gently circulates warm air that has risen to the ceiling back down into the living space. It is a simple adjustment that can make your home feel warmer without raising the thermostat.

Replace the batteries in your thermostat at the start of the season. Set your heating schedule for fall and winter. A programmable thermostat set to 68 degrees when you are home and awake, and 62 degrees when you are sleeping or away, can save you 10 percent or more on heating costs.

After most leaves have dropped, usually in late October or November in South Jersey, clean your gutters thoroughly. Remove all debris by hand or with a gutter scoop. Flush the downspouts with a hose to make sure they are clear. Check that all gutter hangers are secure and that there are no sagging sections. Consider installing gutter guards if you are tired of cleaning gutters twice a year.

While cleaning, inspect your gutters for rust spots, cracks, holes, and separations at the seams. Check that the gutters slope properly toward the downspouts. Water should not pool in any section. Repair or replace damaged sections now, before winter ice and snow add extra weight. A gutter failure in winter can cause significant damage and is much harder to repair in cold weather.

On a windy day, walk around your home with a lit incense stick or a candle and hold it near the edges of windows and doors. If the smoke wavers or the flame flickers, you have a draft. Mark each spot so you can address it. Pay special attention to the bottom of doors, the gap between window sashes, and any cracks where the frame meets the wall.

Replace worn or compressed weatherstripping around exterior doors. Adhesive foam tape and V-strip are easy to install and inexpensive. Install a door sweep on the bottom of each exterior door. Door sweeps cost about $10 to $20 each and block the biggest draft point in most homes. Check the weatherstripping on your garage door as well, especially if there is living space above the garage.

For drafty windows, removable caulk cord pressed into the gap between the sash and frame is an inexpensive and effective solution. For windows you never open in winter, apply shrink-film plastic window insulation kits. These create an insulating air pocket and can reduce heat loss by 20 to 30 percent per window. They cost under $20 per window and remove cleanly in spring.

Disconnect all garden hoses from outdoor faucets. Drain the hoses completely and store them for winter. If you leave a hose connected, water trapped in the hose can freeze back into the faucet and burst the pipe inside your wall. This is the most common and most preventable winter plumbing disaster.

If your home has interior shutoff valves for exterior faucets, close them in late fall. Then go outside and open the faucet to drain any water remaining in the pipe. Leave the outdoor faucet open for the winter so any residual water can expand without pressure building in the pipe. Install an insulated faucet cover over the outdoor spigot for extra protection.

If you are replacing an outdoor faucet, install a frost-free hose bib. These have a long stem that extends into the warm interior of your home, so the water shutoff point is inside where it cannot freeze. They cost more than standard faucets but are well worth the investment, especially for frequently used outdoor spigots.

Check every string of lights for frayed wires, cracked sockets, and loose connections before you put them up. Replace any damaged strings. Use only lights rated for outdoor use on the exterior of your home. Indoor lights are not designed to withstand moisture and temperature changes. Buy new LED lights if your old ones are more than five years old, as they use 80 percent less energy and run cooler.

Use a sturdy ladder and have someone hold it steady. Use plastic light clips designed for holiday lights, never nails or staples that can damage the wire insulation. Keep all connections off the ground and use weatherproof covers on outdoor outlets. Never plug more than three strings of lights end to end. Use a power strip with a built-in circuit breaker for multiple connections.

Put your holiday lights on a timer so they turn off automatically at a reasonable hour, typically 10 or 11 PM. Turn off all holiday lights before going to bed or leaving the house. LED lights run cooler than incandescent ones, but they can still overheat if there is a wiring fault. A timer also saves energy and extends the life of your lights.

South Jersey's mature trees produce a heavy leaf drop in October and November. Many homeowners have large oaks, maples, and sycamores that can fill gutters quickly. Plan to clean gutters at least twice in fall, once in early October and again in late November. If your property has many trees, consider leaf guards on gutters or hiring a professional gutter cleaning service.

In Burlington County, the first hard freeze typically occurs between mid-November and early December. Use this date as your deadline for completing all outdoor winterization tasks, including draining hoses, winterizing faucets, sealing foundation vents, and insulating exposed pipes. Set a recurring reminder for October 1 to start your fall checklist.

If you own a historic home in towns like Burlington City, Mount Holly, or Moorestown, pay special attention to draft sealing and heating system efficiency. Historic homes often have single-pane windows, uninsulated walls, and older heating systems. A professional energy audit can identify the most cost-effective improvements while preserving the home's character.

September: Schedule chimney sweep and furnace tune-up. October: Clean gutters, test sump pump, seal drafts. November: Final gutter cleaning, winterize outdoor faucets, stock firewood, prepare emergency kit. December: Install holiday lights safely, verify all winter preparations are complete.